Just the perfect meal for the season: a roasted rack of pork, served with a spicy potato fritter and glazed roasted apples. Goes like this:

Clean the meat and cut the skin cross-wise. Mix dried sage, sea salt, black pepper and a crushed juniper berry, and rub this into the meat. Be generous, and be sure to rub it into the cuts in the skin.

Preheat the oven to 180C, and heat a frying pan on the stove. Add fat.

Sear the pork, skin down, for a couple of minutes, until the skin browns.

Peel one apple a person, and cut into eights. Infuse with a large spoon of quince jelly and two star anise. Spread this into a roasting dish, then place the pork on top, skin-side upwards this time.

Into the oven. Set a timer for 75 minutes.

Peel and grate potatoes, and spice with a handful of finely diced onion, salt, black pepper, nutmeg, one egg yolk. Be creative with your larder: bind this with marjoram, parsley and oats, or with ground almonds, roasted pine kernels and chilly flakes, or anything else that you fancy. It’ll have to go well with the apple (the marjoram, parsley and oats version), or provide a contrast (the spicy version).

Fry the fritters slowly, starting maybe 20 minutes before the meat is ready.

At the 75th minute, remove the dish from the oven, and let the pork rest for 5 minutes. Cut into cutlets. Use the darkened quince and apple juice for decorating.