This week, I’ve been mostly eating squid which, I think, are really cuttlefish, also known as Calamari in Italy or, as it happens in our case, Kalamari in Croatia. We didn’t really plan to eat Kalamari every day, and some of our holiday party ate other fish or even meat dishes at times. However, all in all, I think the party ate Kalamari for supper in at least 75% of all cases.
First, it’s tradition in the family, and something that restores childhood memories.
Second, fresh grilled cuttlefish, served with plenty of garlic and a little parsley, is irresistibly delicious.
Third, when you think a change would be appropriate and one shouldn’t eat grilled Kalamari again, there’s always the fried variety (Kalamari fritti).
And finally, after having eaten fried kalamari on one day, there’s always the grilled variety for the following day…
October 2013 is a pretty wet season in Croatia, at least in the area of the beautiful Paklenica National Park, just while it was (according to the neighbour) nice and pleasant back home. Well, OK, it was also nice and pleasant in Croatia, but not really thanks to the weather.
Photos have all been filtered, rotated, uploaded, and are available right here: http://gallery.gauweiler.net/places/Croatia_Oct_2013/
We had always dismissed the effect of the tide in the Mediterranean Sea. Considering 12m tides in St Malo or 11m ones near Weston-Super-Mare, and considering the Mediterranean Sea in comparison, let alone the Adriatic Sea in particular, let alone a relatively small bay on the Croatian coast, let alone a relatively small bay on the Croatian coast which opens to the North. Surely, considering all this, there can be no tide worth mentioning in the Mediterranean Sea.
However, if you imagine yourself in a small sit-on-top plastic kayak in the middle of a relatively small bay on the Croatian coast (which opens to the North) while the practically non-existent tide comes in, and if you consider the fact that this bay is approximately 60km long and 5km wide, even an inch or two of tidal difference amount to a lot of water, particularly so if you paddle against the incoming tide and strong winds.
T’was good fun. We crossed from Starigrad-Paklenica over to the island of Pag on a dead calm sea (a ~3.5km distance, an “open sea” paddle of ~45 minutes for us), and enjoyed a secluded empty beach with grains of sand the size of a newborn’s head, our picnic lunch and a swim in absolutely stunningly clear waters. Our return was at the time of the aforementioned tidal currents, so we worked ourselves against the elements for a while, then made a tack and rode the currents back home, taking the waves at a 30..45 degree angle – just as much as we dared before the boat would tip over.
Even though the distance travelled on the return must have been longer (on account of the tacking), I don’t think the return crossing took any longer than the outbound paddle.
On other occasions, we observed up to 0.3m of tidal difference (it reaches almost 0.4m in Split). I never knew, or realized.
This week, I’ve been mostly eating squid. Grilled squid, some times with Djuvec rice, some times with the standard fare of overcooked potatoes and chard, sometimes just with salad and bread. Alternatively, we’ve been eating grilled fish (mostly Mackerel or Bream) or a mixed fish platter for two, which typically consists of all the above.
Even though little, if anything, will be a local catch in the Adriatic, somehow the fish is better, fresher, more delicious than anything we can prepare at home, but I shall certainly make an effort and try my best.
None of the meals we enjoyed during 14 days of travelling was outstanding in the fine cuisine sort-of-way, all was pretty much standard home cooking fare at varying levels of pricing. However, almost all the meals we had were simple, straight-forward and delicious.